Iindaba - Ngaba iLicorice Extract Glabridin Iyasebenza Ngokwenene?

I. Intshayelelo

Ishishini lokhathalelo lolusu lincome ubuchule bokwenza mhlophe "IGlabridin" (ithathwe kwiGlycyrrhiza glabra) njengoko idlula i-arbutin yenkokeli yokucoca ngesantya esiphezulu izihlandlo ezili-1164, ifumana isihloko esithi "igolide yokucoca"! Kodwa ngaba iyamangalisa ngokwenene njengoko ivakala? Ifikelela njani kwiziphumo ezingaqhelekanga kangaka?

Njengoko amaxesha onyaka etshintsha kwaye izitrato zihonjiswe “ngemilenze engenanto neengalo ezingenanto,” umxholo wengxoxo phakathi kwabathandi bobuhle, ngaphandle kokukhuselwa lilanga, ngokungathandabuzekiyo ujika ube mhlophe lolusu.

Kwicandelo lokhathalelo lolusu, kukho izithako ezininzi zokumhlophe, kuquka i-vitamin C, i-niacinamide, i-arbutin, i-hydroquinone, i-kojic acid, i-tranexamic acid, i-glutathione, i-ferulic acid, i-phenethylresorcinol (377), nezinye. Nangona kunjalo, isithako esithi “glabridin” sivuselele umdla wabalandeli abaninzi, nto leyo ebangele ukuba kwenziwe uphando olunzulu ukuze kufunyanwe ukuthandwa kwaso okukhulayo. Makhe sihlolisise iinkcukacha!

Ngeli nqaku, sijonge ukujongana nala manqaku aphambili alandelayo:
(1) Ivela phi iGlabridin? Inxulumene njani ne "Glycyrrhiza glabra extract"?
(2) Kutheni i-"Glabridin" ihlonitshwa njenge "golide emhlophe"?
(3) Zithini iingenelo ze-"Glabridin"?
(4) IGlabridin ifikelela njani kwiziphumo zayo zokuba mhlophe?
(5) Ngaba i-licorice inamandla ngokwenene njengoko kutshiwo?
(6) Zeziphi iimveliso zokhathalelo lolusu ezineGlabridin?

Inombolo 1 Ukutyhila Imvelaphi ye "Glabridin"

IGlabridin, ilungu losapho lwe-licorice flavonoid, isuka kwisityalo esithi “Glycyrrhiza glabra.” Kwilizwe lam, kukho iintlobo ezisibhozo eziphambili ze-licorice, kunye neentlobo ezintathu eziqukwe kwi “Pharmacopoeia,” ezizezi Ural licorice, licorice bulge, kunye ne licorice glabra. IGlycyrrhizin ifumaneka kuphela kwiGlycyrrhiza glabra, esebenza njengeyona nto iphambili ye-isoflavone kwisityalo.

Ifomula yolwakhiwo lwe-glycyrrhizin
Ekuqaleni yafunyanwa yinkampani yaseJapan iMARUZEN kwaye ithathwe kwiGlycyrrhiza glabra, i-glycyrrhizin isetyenziswa kakhulu njengesongezelelo kwiimveliso zokhathalelo lolusu ezimhlophe kulo lonke elaseJapan, eKorea, nakwiimpawu ezahlukeneyo zokhathalelo lolusu zamazwe ngamazwe. Nangona kunjalo, kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuba isithako esidweliswe kwiimveliso zokhathalelo lolusu esizisebenzisayo sisenokungabi yi-"glycyrrhizin" kodwa sinokuba yi-"Glycyrrhiza extract." Nangona i-"Glycyrrhizin" iyinto enye, i-"Glycyrrhiza extract" inokubandakanya ezinye izinto ezingakhange zahlulwe kwaye zicocwe ngokupheleleyo, ezinokusebenza njengecebo lokuthengisa ukugxininisa iimpawu "zendalo" zemveliso.

Hayi.2 Kutheni i-licorice ibizwa ngokuba yi-“Gold Whitener”?

I-Glycyrrhizin sisithako esinqabileyo nesinzima ukusikhupha. I-Glycyrrhiza glabra ayifumaneki lula ngobuninzi. Xa idibene nobunzima benkqubo yokukhupha, ngaphantsi kwe-100 grams ingafumaneka kwi-1 ton yeziqu ze-licorice ezintsha kunye namagqabi. Oku kunqongophala kuqhuba ixabiso layo, okwenza ibe yenye yezona zinto ziluhlaza zibiza kakhulu kwiimveliso zokhathalelo lolusu, xa kuthelekiswa negolide. Ixabiso le-90% yezinto eziluhlaza ezicocekileyo zesi sithako linyuka liye kuthi ga kwi-200,000 yuan/kg.
Ndothukile, ngoko ke ndityelele iwebhusayithi ye-Aladdin ukuqinisekisa iinkcukacha. I-licorice ecocekileyo ngokwezibalo (ubumsulwa ≥99%) ithengiswa ngexabiso lokunyusa le-780 yuan/20mg, elilingana ne-39,000 yuan/g.
Ngephanyazo, ndafumana intlonipho entsha ngesi sithako singenantlonelo. Isiphumo saso sokwenza mhlophe ngendlela engenakuthelekiswa nanto siye safumana igama elithi "ukwenza mhlophe igolide" okanye "uMhlophe weGolide".

Hayi. 3 Yintoni Umsebenzi weGlabridin?

IGlabridin ineempawu ezininzi zebhayoloji. Isebenza njengesithako esisebenzayo, esikhuselekileyo, nesinobuhlobo nokusingqongileyo sokususa amabala amhlophe kunye namabala amhlophe. Ukongeza, ineziphumo zokulwa neentsholongwane, ezilwa nokuvuvukala, ezilwa ne-antioxidant, ezilwa nokwaluphala, kunye ne-anti-ultraviolet. Ukusebenza kwayo okugqwesileyo ekususeni amabala amhlophe, ekukhanyiseni nasekususeni amabala amhlophe kuxhaswa yidatha yovavanyo, etyhila ukuba isiphumo seGlabridin sokwenza mhlophe sidlula eso sevithamini C ngokuphindwe ngaphezulu kwama-230, ihydroquinone ngokuphindwe kali-16, kunye nearhente yokwenza mhlophe eyaziwayo i-arbutin ngokuphindwe kali-1164.

Hayi.4 Yintoni indlela yokwenza mhlophe ye-glabridin?

Xa ulusu luvezwa kwimitha ye-ultraviolet, nto leyo ebangela ukuveliswa kwee-free radicals, ii-melanocytes ziyakhuthazwa ukuba zivelise i-tyrosinase. Phantsi kwempembelelo yale enzyme, i-tyrosine eluswini ivelisa i-melanin, nto leyo ekhokelela ekubeni ulusu lube mnyama njengoko i-melanin ithuthwa ukusuka kwi-basal layer ukuya kwi-stratum corneum.
Umgaqo osisiseko walo naliphi na isithako sokwenza mhlophe kukungenelela kwinkqubo yokwenziwa okanye ukuthuthwa kwe-melanin. Indlela yokwenza mhlophe yeGlabridin ibandakanya ikakhulu ezi zinto zintathu zilandelayo:
(1) Ukuthintela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase
I-Glabridin ibonisa impembelelo enamandla yokuthintela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase, ivelisa iziphumo ezicacileyo nezibalulekileyo. Iimodeli zekhompyutha zibonisa ukuba i-glabridin inokubopha ngokuqinileyo kwiziko elisebenzayo le-tyrosinase ngokusebenzisa iibhondi ze-hydrogen, ivale ngempumelelo ukungena kwezinto eziluhlaza zokuvelisa i-melanin (tyrosine), ngaloo ndlela ithintela ukuveliswa kwe-melanin. Le ndlela, eyaziwa ngokuba kukuthintela ukhuphiswano, ifana nesenzo sothando esinesibindi.

(2) Ukuthintela ukuveliswa kweentlobo zeoksijini ezisabelayo (i-antioxidant)
Ukuvezwa kwimitha ye-ultraviolet kubangela ukuveliswa kweentlobo ze-oxygen ezisabelayo (ii-free radicals), ezingonakalisa i-membrane ye-phospholipid yesikhumba, nto leyo ebangela i-erythema kunye ne-pigmentation. Ngenxa yoko, iintlobo ze-oxygen ezisabelayo zaziwa ngokufaka isandla kwi-pigmentation yesikhumba, nto leyo egxininisa ukubaluleka kokukhuselwa lilanga ekunyamekeleni ulusu. Izifundo zovavanyo zibonise ukuba i-glabridin ibonakalisa amandla afanayo okuhlutha ii-free radicals njenge-superoxide dismutase (SOD), esebenza njenge-antioxidant. Oku kusebenza ekunciphiseni izinto ezinegalelo ekwandeni komsebenzi we-tyrosinase.

(3) Ukuthintela ukudumba
Emva komonakalo wolusu obangelwa yimitha ye-ultraviolet, ukubonakala kwe-erythema kunye nokutshintsha kombala kuhamba kunye nokuvuvukala, okwandisa ngakumbi ukuveliswa kwe-melanin kwaye kuqhubeke nomjikelo onobungozi. Iimpawu zeGlabridin zokulwa nokuvuvukala zidala imeko-bume efanelekileyo yokuthintela ukwakheka kwe-melanin ukuya kwinqanaba elithile, ngelixa zikwakhuthaza ukulungiswa kolusu olonakeleyo.

Hayi. 5 Ngaba iGlabridin Inamandla Ngokwenene?

I-Glabridin idunyiswe njengesithako esisebenzayo nesinobuhlobo nokusingqongileyo sokususa amabala amhlophe, iqhayisa ngendlela yokwenza mhlophe echazwe kakuhle kunye nokusebenza kakuhle okumangalisayo. Idatha yovavanyo ibonisa ukuba isiphumo sayo sokwenza mhlophe sidlula eso se-arbutin "enkulu yokwenza mhlophe" ngaphezulu kwewaka (njengoko kuxeliwe kwidatha yovavanyo).
Abaphandi benze imodeli yovavanyo lwezilwanyana besebenzisa i-zebrafish ukuvavanya isiphumo sokuthintela i-glabridin kwi-melanin, betyhila uthelekiso olubalulekileyo ne-kojic acid kunye ne-bearberry.
Ukongeza kwizilingo zezilwanyana, iziphumo zeklinikhi zikwabonisa isiphumo esibalaseleyo sokwenza mhlophe i-glabridin, kunye neziphumo ezibonakalayo ezibonwa kwiiveki ezi-4-8.
Nangona ukusebenza kwesi sithako sokwenza mhlophe kubonakala, ukusetyenziswa kwaso akuxhaphakanga njengezinye izithako zokwenza mhlophe. Ngokoluvo lwam, isizathu esiphambili sikukuba “sikwimo yaso yegolide” kushishino—sibiza kakhulu! Nangona kunjalo, emva kokusetyenziswa kweemveliso zokhathalelo lolusu eziqhelekileyo, kukho umkhwa okhulayo wabantu abafuna iimveliso ezinale sithako “segolide”.

6. Zeziphi iimveliso zokhathalelo lolusu ezineGlabridin?

Isikhanyeli: Olu luhlu lulandelayo, asilulo ucebiso!
I-Glabridin sisithako esinamandla sokhathalelo lolusu esaziwa ngeempawu zaso zokukhanyisa ulusu. Inokufumaneka kwiimveliso ezahlukeneyo zokhathalelo lolusu, kubandakanya ii-serum, ii-essence, ii-lotions, kunye neemaski. Nangona kunjalo, ezinye iimveliso ezithile ezinokuba ne-Glabridin, kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuba ubukho be-Glabridin kwiimveliso zokhathalelo lolusu bunokwahluka, kwaye kuyacetyiswa ukuba uhlolisise ngononophelo uluhlu lwezithako zeemveliso ezithile ukuze uchonge ukufakwa kwayo.
(1) Iloshini yomzimba ye-Aleble Licorice Queen
Uluhlu lwezithako lubonisa ngokucacileyo "iGlycyrrhiza glabra" njengesithako sesibini (esilandela amanzi), kunye neglycerin, i-sodium hyaluronate, i-squalane, i-ceramide, kunye nezinye izinto ezifumisayo.
(2) Ukulungiswa kwe-Essence Water yeZithambiso zabantwana zeLicorice Light Fruit Light
Izithako eziphambili ziquka i-Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, i-hydrolyzed algae extract, i-arbutin, i-Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, i-Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, kunye nokunye.
(3) I-Kokoskin Snow Clock Essence Body Serum
Iquka i-5% nicotinamide, 377, kunye ne-glabridin njengezona zinto ziphambili.
(4) Imaski yobuso yeLicorice (Iimpawu ezahlukeneyo)
Olu didi lweemveliso luyahluka, ezinye ziqulathe ubungakanani obuncinci kwaye zithengiswa njenge-“glabragan” yezityalo.
(5) Uthotho lweGuyu Licorice

Inombolo 7 yokuhlushwa komphefumlo

(1) Ngaba iGlabridin ekwiimveliso zokhathalelo lolusu ikhutshwe kwi-licorice ngokwenene?
Umbuzo wokuba ingaba iGlabridin kwiimveliso zokhathalelo lolusu ikhutshwe ngokwenene kwi-licorice ngumbuzo ofanelekileyo na. Ulwakhiwo lweekhemikhali lwe-licorice extract, ingakumbi i-glabridin, luhlukile, kwaye inkqubo yokukhupha inokuba neendleko eziphezulu. Oku kuphakamisa umbuzo wokuba ingaba kuluncedo na ukuqwalasela ukwenziwa kweekhemikhali njengendlela eyahlukileyo yokufumana i-glabridin. Ngelixa ezinye iikhompawundi, ezifana ne-artemisinin, zinokufunyanwa ngokwenziwa ngokupheleleyo, kunokwenzeka ngokwethiyori ukwenza i-glabridin. Nangona kunjalo, iziphumo zeendleko zokwenziwa kweekhemikhali xa kuthelekiswa nokukhutshwa kufuneka ziqwalaselwe. Ukongeza, kunokubakho iinkxalabo malunga nokusetyenziswa ngabom kweleyibhile ethi "Glycyrrhiza glabra extract" kuluhlu lwezithako zemveliso yokhathalelo lolusu ukudala umtsalane wendalo wokuthengisa izithako. Kubalulekile ukuphonononga imvelaphi kunye neendlela zokuvelisa izithako zokhathalelo lolusu ukuqinisekisa ukucaca kunye nobunyani.

(2) Ndingayisebenzisa i-high-purity licorice ngqo ebusweni bam ukuze ndifumane umbala omhlophe njengekhephu?
Impendulo ingu-hayi ocacileyo! Nangona isiphumo sokuba mhlophe kwe-glabridin sincomeka, iimpawu zayo ziyayithintela indlela esebenza ngayo ngokuthe ngqo. I-Glycyrrhizin ayinyibiliki emanzini, kwaye amandla ayo okungena kumqobo wolusu abuthathaka. Ukuyifaka kwiimveliso zokhathalelo lolusu kufuna iinkqubo zokwenziwa nokulungiswa okungqongqo. Ngaphandle kokwenziwa ngokufanelekileyo, kuya kuba nzima ukufezekisa isiphumo esifunekayo. Nangona kunjalo, uphando lwezenzululwazi lukhokelele ekuphuhlisweni kwamalungiselelo angaphandle ngendlela ye-liposomes, okuphucula ukufunxwa nokusetyenziswa kwe-glabridin eluswini.

iireferensi:
[1] Ukuba nebala elibala: i-dychromia[M]. Thierry Passeron kunye noJean-Paul Ortonne, ngo-2010.
[2] J. Chen et al. / Spectrochimica Acta Icandelo A: I-Molecular and Biomolecular Spectroscopy 168 (2016) 111–117