Iindaba - Ngaba iLicorice Extract Glabridin iyasebenza ngokwenene?

I. Intshayelelo

Umzi-mveliso wokhathalelo lolusu ubothulel' umnqwazi ubuchule bokwenza mhlophe "Glabridin" (icatshulwe kwiGlycyrrhiza glabra) njengoko idlula inkokeli emhlophe i-arbutin ngokumangalisayo kangangezihlandlo ezili-1164, ifumana iwonga elithi “igolide yokwenza mhlophe”! Kodwa ngaba ngokwenene iphawuleka njengoko ivakala?

Njengoko amaxesha onyaka etshintsha nezitrato zihonjiswe ngakumbi “ngemilenze engenanto neengalo ezinganxibanga,” nto leyo engumxholo phakathi kwabo bathanda ubuhle, ngaphandle nje kokukhuselwa lilanga, ngokungenakuphepheka uguqukela ekubeni mhlophe ulusu.

Kwindawo yokunyamekela kwesikhumba, i-myriad of whitening ingredients ininzi, kuquka i-vitamin C, i-niacinamide, i-arbutin, i-hydroquinone, i-kojic acid, i-tranexamic acid, i-glutathione, i-ferulic acid, i-phenethylresorcinol (377), kunye nokunye. Nangona kunjalo, isithako esithi "i-glabridin" siye sabangela umdla wabalandeli abaninzi, okwenza ukuba uphando olunzulu lubonise ukuthandwa kwayo okukhulayo. Makhe sihlolisise iinkcukacha!

Ngeli nqaku, sijonge ukulungisa la manqaku alandelayo:
(1) Yintoni imvelaphi yeGlabridin? Inxulumana njani "nesicatshulwa se-Glycyrrhiza glabra"?
(2) Kutheni igama elithi “Glabridin” lihlonelwa “njengegolide emhlophe”?
(3) Ziziphi iingenelo ze "Glabridin"?
(4) I-Glabridin ifikelela njani kwimiphumo yayo emhlophe?
(5) Ngaba ngokwenene i-licorice inamandla njengoko kuchaziwe?
(6) Zeziphi iimveliso zokhathalelo lwesikhumba eziqulathe iGlabridin?

No.1 Ukutyhila imvelaphi ye "Glabridin"

IGlabridin, ilungu lentsapho ye-licorice flavonoid, ivela kwisityalo esithi "Glycyrrhiza glabra." Kwilizwe lam, kukho iintlobo ezisibhozo eziphambili ze-licorice, kunye neentlobo ezintathu ezifakwe kwi-"Pharmacopoeia," ezizezi i-Ural licorice, i-licorice bulge, kunye ne-licorice glabra. I-Glycyrrhizin ifumaneka kuphela kwi-Glycyrrhiza glabra, esebenza njengeyona nto iphambili ye-isoflavone yesityalo.

Ifomula yesakhiwo se-glycyrrhizin
Iqale yafunyanwa yinkampani yaseJapan i-MARUZEN yaze yatsalwa kwi-Glycyrrhiza glabra, i-glycyrrhizin isetyenziswa ngokubanzi njengendawo yokongeza kwiimveliso zokhathalelo lwesikhumba kulo lonke elaseJapan, eKorea, kunye neebrendi ezahlukeneyo zokhathalelo lwehlabathi. Nangona kunjalo, kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuba isithako esidweliswe kwiimveliso zokhathalelo lwesikhumba esizisebenzisayo sinokungabi yi "glycyrrhizin" kodwa "isicatshulwa seGlycyrrhiza." Ngelixa i-“Glycyrrhizin” iyinto ekwisinye, “isicatshulwa seGlycyrrhiza” sinokubandakanya izinto ezongezelelweyo ezingakhange zibe zodwa ngokupheleleyo kwaye zicocwe, ezinokusebenza njengecebo lokuthengisa ukugxininisa iimpawu “zendalo” zemveliso.

No.2 Kutheni i-licorice ibizwa ngokuba yi-“Gold Whitener”?

I-Glycyrrhizin yinto enqabileyo kwaye inzima ukuyikhupha. IGlycyrrhiza glabra ayifumaneki lula ngobuninzi. Ukudibanisa kunye nobunzima benkqubo yokukhutshwa, ngaphantsi kwe-100 grams inokufumaneka kwi-1 toni ye-licorice esitsha kunye namaqabunga. Oku kunqongophala kuqhuba ixabiso layo, kuyenza ibe yenye yezona zixhobo zixabisa kakhulu kwiimveliso zokhathalelo lwesikhumba, xa zithelekiswa negolide. Ixabiso le-90% yemathiriyeli ecocekileyo yesi sithako linyuka liye ngaphaya kwe-200,000 ye-yuan/kg.
Ndothukile, ndiye ndandwendwela iwebhusayithi ye-Aladdin ukuze ndiqinisekise iinkcukacha. I-analytical pure (ubunyulu ≥99%) i-licorice inikezelwa ngexabiso lentengiso ye-780 yuan / 20mg, elilingana ne-39,000 yuan / g.
Ngephanyazo, ndafumana intlonipho entsha yesi sithako esingazinzanga. Isiphumo sayo sobumhlophe obungalinganiyo siye sayifumana ngokufanelekileyo iwonga elithi "enziwe mhlophe igolide" okanye "Golden Whitener".

No.3 Yintoni uMsebenzi weGlabridin?

I-Glabridin inentaphane yeempawu zebhayoloji. Isebenza njengesithako esisebenzayo, esikhuselekileyo, kunye nesihambelana nokusingqongileyo ukwenza mhlophe kunye nokususwa kwamabala. Ukongeza, ine-antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-aging, kunye ne-anti-ultraviolet iziphumo. Ukusebenza kwayo okugqwesileyo kumhlophe, ukuqaqamba, kunye nokususa amagwebu kuxhaswa yidatha yovavanyo, ebonisa ukuba isiphumo sokwenza mhlophe kweGlabridin idlula i-vitamin C ngamaxesha angaphezu kwe-230, i-hydroquinone ngamaxesha angama-16, kunye ne-agent emhlophe eyaziwayo i-arbutin nge-1164 emangalisayo. amaxesha.

No.4 Yintoni indlela yokwenza mhlophe ye-glabridin?

Xa ulusu lubonakaliswe kwimisebe ye-ultraviolet, ebangela ukuveliswa kwee-radicals zamahhala, i-melanocytes ivuselelwe ukuvelisa i-tyrosinase. Phantsi kwempembelelo yale enzyme, i-tyrosine eluswini ivelisa i-melanin, nto leyo ekhokelela ekubeni ulusu lube mnyama njengoko i-melanin ithuthwa isuka kwi-basal layer isiya kwi-stratum corneum.
Umgaqo osisiseko wayo nayiphi na isithako esimhlophe kukungenelela kwinkqubo yokwenziwa kwe-melanin okanye ukuthutha. Indlela yokwenza mhlophe yeGlabridin ikakhulu ibandakanya le miba mithathu ilandelayo:
(1) Ukuthintela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase
I-Glabridin ibonisa impembelelo enamandla yokuthintela kumsebenzi we-tyrosinase, ivelisa iziphumo ezicacileyo kunye ezibalulekileyo. Ukulinganisa kweekhompyuter kuveza ukuba i-glabridin inokubophelela ngokuqinileyo kwiziko elisebenzayo le-tyrosinase ngokusebenzisa iibhondi ze-hydrogen, ivalela ngokufanelekileyo ukungena kwezinto eziluhlaza kwimveliso ye-melanin (tyrosine), ngaloo ndlela ithintele ukuveliswa kwe-melanin. Le ndlela, eyaziwa ngokuba yi-inhibition yokhuphiswano, ifana nesenzo sothando esinesibindi.

(2) Ukucinezela ukuveliswa kweentlobo zeoksijini esebenzayo (i-antioxidant)
Ukuvezwa kwimitha ye-ultraviolet kubangela ukuveliswa kweentlobo ze-oksijini esebenzayo (i-radicals yamahhala), enokonakalisa i-membrane ye-phospholipid yolusu, okukhokelela kwi-erythema kunye ne-pigmentation. Ke, iintlobo zeoksijini esebenzayo ziyaziwa ngokuba negalelo kumbala wolusu, zigxininisa ukubaluleka kokukhuselwa kwelanga kukhathalelo lwesikhumba. Uphononongo lovavanyo lubonise ukuba i-glabridin ibonakalisa amandla afanayo asimahla wokukhupha kwi-superoxide dismutase (SOD), esebenza njenge-antioxidant. Oku kunceda ukunciphisa izinto ezinegalelo ekwandeni komsebenzi we-tyrosinase.

(3) Ukuthintela ukuvuvukala
Ukulandela umonakalo wesikhumba kwimisebe ye-ultraviolet, ukubonakala kwe-erythema kunye ne-pigmentation ihamba kunye nokuvuvukala, ukunyusa ukuveliswa kwe-melanin kunye nokuqhubela phambili umjikelezo onobungozi. Iimpawu ezichasayo ze-Glabridin zenza indawo efanelekileyo yokuthintela ukubunjwa kwe-melanin kwinqanaba elithile, ngelixa likwakhuthaza ukulungiswa kwesikhumba esonakele.

No. 5 Ngaba Ngokwenene UGlabridin Unamandla Olo?

I-Glabridin iye yanconywa njengesithako esisebenzayo kunye nesingqongileyo sokwenza mhlophe kunye nokususwa kwe-freckle, ukuqhayisa indlela ecacileyo ecacileyo kunye nokusebenza okuphawulekayo. Idatha yovavanyo ibonisa ukuba isiphumo sayo sobumhlophe dlula "i-giant emhlophe" i-arbutin ngamaxesha angaphezu kwewaka (njengoko kuchazwe kwidatha yovavanyo).
Abaphandi baqhube imodeli yovavanyo lwezilwanyana usebenzisa i-zebrafish ukuvavanya umphumo wokuthintela we-glabridin kwi-melanin, ebonisa uthelekiso olubalulekileyo kunye ne-kojic acid kunye ne-bearberry.
Ukongeza kwiimvavanyo zezilwanyana, iziphumo zeklinikhi zikwagqamisa umphumo obalaseleyo wobumhlophe we-glabridin, kunye neziphumo ezibonakalayo ezibonwe kwiiveki ze-4-8.
Ngelixa ukusebenza kwesi sithako sokwenza mhlophe kubonakala, ukusetyenziswa kwayo akuxhaphakanga njengezinye izithako ezimhlophe. Ngokombono wam, esona sizathu siphambili silele “kwimo yegolide” kwishishini—libiza imali eninzi! Nangona kunjalo, emva kokusetyenziswa kweemveliso eziqhelekileyo zokhathalelo lwesikhumba, kukho indlela ekhulayo yabantu abafuna iimveliso eziqulethe le "golide".

No.6 Ziziphi iimveliso ze-Skincare eziqulethe i-Glabridin?

Ukuziphendulela: Oku kulandelayo luhlu, kungekhona isincomo!
I-Glabridin sisithako esinamandla se-skincare eyaziwayo ngeempawu zayo zokuqaqambisa ulusu. Inokufumaneka kwiimveliso ezahlukeneyo zokhathalelo lwesikhumba, kubandakanya iiserum, iiess, izinto zokuthambisa, kunye nemaski. Ezinye iimveliso ezithile ezinokuthi ziqulathe i-Glabridin, nangona kunjalo, kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuba ubukho be-Glabridin kwiimveliso ze-skincare bunokwahluka, kwaye kuyacetyiswa ukuba uphonononge ngononophelo uluhlu lwezithako zeemveliso ezithile ukuchonga ukubandakanywa kwayo.
(1) I-Aleble Licorice Queen Body Lotion
Uluhlu lwezithako lubonisa ngokugqithiseleyo "i-Glycyrrhiza glabra" njengesithako sesibini (amanzi alandelayo), kunye ne-glycerin, i-sodium hyaluronate, i-squalane, i-ceramide, kunye nezinye izinto zokuthambisa.
(2) I-Makeup yabantwana i-Makeup Light Fruit Licorice Repair Essence Water
Izithako eziphambili ziquka i-Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, i-hydrolyzed algae extract, i-arbutin, i-Polygonum cuspidatum i-root extract, i-Scutellaria baicalensis ingcambu yengcambu, kunye nokunye.
(3) Kokoskin Snow Clock Essence Body Serum
Ibandakanya i-5% ye-nicotinamide, i-377, kunye ne-glabridin njengamacandelo ayo aphambili.
(4) IMaski yoBuso yeLicorice (iintlobo ngeentlobo zeempawu)
Olu didi lweemveliso luyohluka, ezinye zinexabiso elincinci kwaye zithengiswa njenge "glabragan" yamayeza.
(5) Guyu Licorice Series

No.7 Ukuthuthunjiswa komphefumlo

(1) Ngaba i-Glabridin kwiimveliso ze-skincare zikhutshwe ngokwenene kwi-licorice?
Umbuzo wokuba i-Glabridin kwiimveliso ze-skincare ikhutshwe ngokwenene kwi-licorice yinto efanelekileyo. Ukwakhiwa kweekhemikhali ze-licorice extract, ngokukodwa i-glabridin, ihluke, kwaye inkqubo yokukhutshwa ingaba yindleko. Oku kuphakamisa umbuzo wokuba ingaba inokuba luncedo na ngakumbi ukuqwalasela ukuhlanganiswa kweekhemikhali njengenye indlela yokufumana i-glabridin. Ngelixa ezinye iikhompawundi, ezifana ne-artemisinin, zinokufunyanwa ngokudityaniswa okupheleleyo, ngokwethiyori kunokwenzeka ukwenza i-glabridin ngokunjalo. Nangona kunjalo, iindleko zeendleko ze-chemical synthesis xa kuthelekiswa nokutsalwa kufuneka zithathelwe ingqalelo. Ukongeza, kusenokubakho iinkxalabo malunga nokusetyenziswa ngabom kwelebhile ethi "Glycyrrhiza glabra extract" kuluhlu lwezithako zeemveliso zeskincare ukwenza isibheno sentengiso yesithako sendalo. Kubalulekile ukuhlolisisa imvelaphi kunye neendlela zemveliso yezithako ze-skincare ukuqinisekisa ukungafihli kunye nokunyaniseka.

(2) Ngaba ndingasebenzisa i-licorice ephezulu ecocekileyo ngqo ebusweni bam ngebala elimhlophe qhwa?
Impendulo nguhayi obambekayo! Nangona i-whitening effect ye-glabridin iyancomeka, iipropati zayo zinciphisa ukusetyenziswa kwayo ngokuthe ngqo. I-Glycyrrhizin iphantse inganyibiliki emanzini, kwaye ukukwazi kwayo ukungena kumqobo wesikhumba kubuthathaka. Ukuyibandakanya kwiimveliso zokhathalelo lwesikhumba kufuna imveliso engqongqo kunye neenkqubo zokulungiselela. Ngaphandle kokwenziwa ngendlela eyiyo, kuya kuba ngumceli mngeni ukufikelela kwisiphumo esifunekayo. Nangona kunjalo, uphando lwezenzululwazi luye lwakhokelela ekuphuhlisweni kwamalungiselelo e-topical ngendlela ye-liposomes, ukuphucula ukufunxa kunye nokusetyenziswa kwe-glabridin ngesikhumba.

iimbekiselo:
[1] Ukuba nebala elibala: i-dychromia[M]. Thierry Passeron kunye noJean-Paul Ortonne, ngo-2010.
[2] J. Chen et al. / I-Spectrochimica Acta Icandelo A: I-Molecular kunye ne-Biomolecular Spectroscopy 168 (2016) 111-117