Njengoko ulusu lukhula, kukho ukwehla komsebenzi we-physiologic. Olu tshintsho lubangelwa zizinto ezingaphakathi (zexesha) kunye nezinto ezingaphandle (ezibangelwa kakhulu yi-UV). IiBotanicals zibonelela ngeenzuzo ezinokubakho zokulwa nezinye zeempawu zokwaluphala. Apha, sijonga ii-botanicals ezithile kunye nobungqina besayensi obusemva kwezibango zazo zokulwa nokwaluphala. IiBotanicals zinokubonelela ngeziphumo zokulwa nokuvuvukala, i-antioxidant, ukufuma, ukuzikhusela kwi-UV, kunye nezinye. Uninzi lwee-botanicals zidweliswe njengezithako kwi-cosmetics kunye ne-cosmeceuticals ezithandwayo, kodwa zimbalwa kuphela ezikhethiweyo ezixoxwa ngazo apha. Ezi zikhethwe ngokusekelwe kubukho bedatha yesayensi, umdla wobuqu wababhali, kunye "nokuthandwa" kweemveliso ze-cosmetic kunye ne-cosmeceutical zangoku. Ii-botanicals ezihlolwe apha ziquka ioyile ye-argan, ioyile yekhokhonathi, i-crocin, i-feverfew, iti eluhlaza, i-marigold, i-pomegranate, kunye ne-soy.
Amagama angundoqo: i-botanical; i-anti-aging; ioyile ye-argan; ioyile yekhokhonathi; i-crocin; i-feverfew; iti eluhlaza; i-marigold; ipomegranate; i-soy
3.1. Ioyile yeArgan
3.1.1. Imbali, Ukusetyenziswa, kunye namabango
Ioyile ye-Argan ifumaneka eMorocco kwaye iveliswa kwimbewu ye-Argania sponosa L. Ineendlela ezininzi zokusetyenziswa kwemveli ezifana nokupheka, ukunyanga izifo zolusu, kunye nokunyamekela ulusu neenwele.
3.1.2. Ukwakhiwa kunye nendlela yokusebenza
Ioyile ye-Argan yenziwe ngama-80% amafutha angenawo ulwelo kunye nama-20% amafutha agcweleyo kwaye inee-polyphenols, ii-tocopherols, ii-sterols, i-squalene, kunye ne-triterpene alcohol.
3.1.3. Ubungqina beSayensi
Ioyile ye-Argan ibisoloko isetyenziswa eMorocco ukunciphisa umbala wobuso, kodwa isiseko sesayensi sale bango besingaqondakali ngaphambili. Kwisifundo seempuku, ioyile ye-argan yathintela ukubonakaliswa kwe-tyrosinase kunye ne-dopachrome tautomerase kwiiseli ze-B16 murine melanoma, nto leyo eyabangela ukwehla komthamo we-melanin ngokuxhomekeke kwidosi. Oku kubonisa ukuba ioyile ye-argan inokuba ngumqobo onamandla we-melanin biosynthesis, kodwa iimvavanyo zolawulo ezingacwangciswanga (RTC) kubantu ziyafuneka ukuqinisekisa le ngcamango.
I-RTC encinci yabasetyhini abangama-60 emva kokuya exesheni icebise ukuba ukusetyenziswa kweoyile ye-argan imihla ngemihla kunye/okanye ukusetyenziswa kwayo phezu kwesikhumba kunciphisa ukulahleka kwamanzi e-transepidermal (TEWL), ukuphucula ukuthamba kolusu, ngokusekelwe ekwandeni kwe-R2 (ukuthamba okukhulu kolusu), i-R5 (ukuthamba okucocekileyo kolusu), kunye ne-R7 (ukuthamba kwezinto eziphilayo) kunye nokwehla kwexesha lokusebenza kwe-resonance (RRT) (umlinganiselo ohambelana nokuqina kolusu). Amaqela acwangciswa ngokungacwangciswanga ukuba asebenzise ioyile yomnquma okanye ioyile ye-argan. Omabini amaqela asebenzisa ioyile ye-argan kwisandla se-volar sasekhohlo kuphela. Ukulinganiswa kuthathwe kwizandla ze-volar zasekunene nezasekhohlo. Ukuphuculwa kokuthamba kubonwe kumaqela omabini esihlahleni apho ioyile ye-argan yayisetyenziswa phezu kwesikhumba, kodwa esihlahleni apho ioyile ye-argan ingasetyenziswanga kuphela iqela elisebenzisa ioyile ye-argan lafumana ukwanda okukhulu kokuthamba [31]. Oku kubangelwa kukwanda komxholo we-antioxidant kwioyile ye-argan xa kuthelekiswa neoyile yomnquma. Kucingelwa ukuba oku kungenxa yomxholo wayo weVitamin E kunye nomxholo we-ferulic acid, owaziwa ngokuba yi-antioxidants.
3.2. Ioyile yekhokhonathi
3.2.1. Imbali, Ukusetyenziswa, kunye namabango
Ioyile yekhokhonathi ifumaneka kwisiqhamo esomileyo seCocos nucifera kwaye isetyenziswa ngeendlela ezininzi, kwimbali neyanamhlanje. Isetyenziswe njenge-aromatherapy, ulusu, kunye ne-hair conditioner, nakwiimveliso ezininzi zokuthambisa. Nangona ioyile yekhokhonathi ineemveliso ezininzi, kuquka i-coconut acid, i-hydrogenated coconut acid, kunye ne-hydrogenated coconut oil, siza kuxoxa ngamabango ophando anxulunyaniswa kakhulu ne-virgin coconut oil (VCO), elungiselelwe ngaphandle kobushushu.
Ioyile yekhokhonathi isetyenziselwe ukufumisa ulusu losana kwaye inokuba luncedo ekunyangeni i-atopic dermatitis ngenxa yeempawu zayo zokufumisa kunye nemiphumo yayo enokubakho kwi-Staphylococcus aureus kunye nezinye iintsholongwane zolusu kwizigulana ezine-atopic. Ioyile yekhokhonathi ibonakalisiwe ukuba iyanciphisa i-S. aureus colonization kulusu lwabantu abadala abane-atopic dermatitis kwi-RTC engaboni kabini.
3.2.2. Ukwakhiwa kunye nendlela yokusebenza
Ioyile yekhokhonathi yenziwe ngama-90–95% e-triglycerides agcweleyo (i-lauric acid, i-myristic acid, i-caprylic acid, i-capric acid, kunye ne-palmitic acid). Oku kwahlukile kwiioyile ezininzi zemifuno/iziqhamo, eziqulathe kakhulu amafutha angagcwaliyo. Ii-triglycerides ezigcweleyo ezisetyenziswa phezulu zisebenza ukufumisa ulusu njenge-emollient ngokunciphisa imiphetho eyomileyo egobileyo ye-corneocytes kwaye zizalise izithuba phakathi kwazo.
3.2.3. Ubungqina beSayensi
Ioyile yekhokhonathi inokufumisa ulusu oludalayo olomileyo. Amashumi amathandathu anesibini ekhulwini ee-fatty acids kwi-VCO zinobude obufanayo kwaye ama-92% agcwele, nto leyo evumela ukupakisha okuqinileyo okubangela isiphumo esikhulu sokuvaleka kuneoyile yomnquma. Ii-triglycerides kwioyile yekhokhonathi zahlulwahlulwa yi-lipases kwizityalo eziqhelekileyo zesikhumba ukuya kwi-glycerin kunye nee-fatty acids. I-Glycerin yi-humectant enamandla, etsala amanzi kumaleko we-cornea ye-epidermis ukusuka kwindawo engaphandle kunye neengqimba zesikhumba ezinzulu. Ii-fatty acids kwi-VCO zinomxholo ophantsi we-linoleic acid, nto leyo ebalulekileyo kuba i-linoleic acid inokucaphukisa ulusu. Ioyile yekhokhonathi ingcono kuneoyile yeminerali ekunciphiseni i-TEWL kwizigulana ezine-atopic dermatitis kwaye isebenza kakuhle kwaye ikhuselekile njengeoyile yeminerali ekunyangeni i-xerosis.
I-asidi yeLauric, eyandulela i-monolaurin kwaye iyinxalenye ebalulekileyo ye-VCO, inokuba neempawu zokulwa nokuvuvukala, ikwazi ukulawula ukwanda kweeseli zomzimba kwaye ibe noxanduva lweminye yemiphumo yokulwa neentsholongwane ye-VCO. I-VCO iqulethe amanqanaba aphezulu e-asidi ye-ferulic kunye ne-asidi ye-p-coumaric (zombini ii-asidi ze-phenolic), kwaye amanqanaba aphezulu ezi phenolic acids anxulunyaniswa nomthamo owandisiweyo we-antioxidant. Ii-asidi ze-phenolic ziyasebenza ngokuchasene nomonakalo obangelwa yi-UV. Nangona kunjalo, nangona amabango okuba ioyile yekhokhonathi inokusebenza njenge-sunscreen, izifundo ze-in vitro zibonisa ukuba ayinayo i-UV-blocking potential enkulu okanye engekhoyo.
Ukongeza kwimiphumo yayo yokufumisa kunye neyokulwa neentsholongwane, iimodeli zezilwanyana zibonisa ukuba i-VCO inokunciphisa ixesha lokuphiliswa kwenxeba. Kwakukho inqanaba elonyukileyo le-collagen enyibilikayo ye-pepsin (i-collagen cross-linking ephezulu) kumanxeba anyangwe yi-VCO xa kuthelekiswa nabalawuli. I-Histopathology ibonise ukwanda kwe-fibroblast kunye ne-neovascularization kula manxeba. Kufuneka uphando olongezelelekileyo ukuze kubonwe ukuba ukusetyenziswa kwe-VCO ngaphandle kwesikhumba kunokunyusa na amanqanaba e-collagen kulusu lomntu oludalayo.
3.3. I-Crocin
3.3.1. Imbali, Ukusetyenziswa, Amabango
I-Crocin yinxalenye esebenzayo yesafron ngokwebhayoloji, ephuma kwi-stigma eyomileyo yeCrocus sativus L. I-Saffron ilinywa kumazwe amaninzi kuquka i-Iran, i-India, neGrisi, kwaye isetyenzisiwe kumayeza esintu ukunciphisa izifo ezahlukeneyo kuquka ukudakumba, ukudumba, isifo sesibindi, nezinye ezininzi.
3.3.2. Ukwakhiwa kunye nendlela yokusebenza
I-Crocin inoxanduva lombala wesafron. I-Crocin ikwafumaneka kwisiqhamo seGardenia jasminoides Ellis. Ihlelwa njenge-carotenoid glycoside.
3.3.3. Ubungqina beSayensi
I-Crocin ineempembelelo ze-antioxidant, ikhusela i-squalene kwi-peroxidation ebangelwa yi-UV, kwaye ithintela ukukhululwa kwe-inflammatory mediators. Isiphumo se-antioxidant sibonakaliswe kwi-in vitro assays ezibonise umsebenzi ophezulu we-antioxidant xa kuthelekiswa ne-Vitamin C. Ukongeza, i-crocin ithintela i-UVA-induced cell membrane peroxidation kwaye ithintela ukubonakaliswa kwe-pro-inflammatory mediators ezininzi eziquka i-IL-8, i-PGE-2, i-IL-6, i-TNF-α, i-IL-1α, kunye ne-LTB4. Ikwanciphisa ukubonakaliswa kwe-genes ezininzi ezixhomekeke kwi-NF-κB. Kwisifundo esisebenzisa ii-fibroblasts zabantu ezikhuliswe kakuhle, i-crocin inciphise i-UV-induced ROS, ikhuthaze ukubonakaliswa kweproteni ye-extracellular matrix Col-1, kwaye inciphise inani leeseli ezine-senescent phenotypes emva kwemitha ye-UV. Inciphisa ukuveliswa kwe-ROS kwaye inciphisa i-apoptosis. I-Crocin iboniswe ukuba icinezela iindlela ze-ERK/MAPK/NF-κB/STAT signaling kwiiseli ze-HaCaT kwi-vitro. Nangona i-crocin inamandla njenge-anti-aging cosmeceutical, i-compound ayisebenzi. Ukusetyenziswa kwe-nanostructured lipid dispersions ekusetyenzisweni kwangaphakathi kuye kwaphandwa ngeziphumo ezithembisayo. Ukuze kufunyaniswe imiphumo ye-crocin emzimbeni, kufuneka iimodeli ezongezelelweyo zezilwanyana kunye novavanyo lweklinikhi olungacwangciswanga.
3.4. I-Feverfew
3.4.1. Imbali, Ukusetyenziswa, Amabango
I-Feverfew, iTanacetum parthenium, sisityalo esihlala sisetyenziswa kangangexesha elide esiye sasetyenziswa kwiinjongo ezininzi kumayeza esintu.
3.4.2. Ukwakhiwa kunye nendlela yokusebenza
I-Feverfew ine-parthenolide, i-sesquiterpene lactone, enokuba negalelo kwezinye zeziphumo zayo zokulwa nokuvuvukala, ngokuthintela i-NF-κB. Olu thintelo lwe-NF-κB lubonakala luzimeleyo kwiziphumo ze-parthenolide ze-antioxidant. I-Parthenolide ikwabonakalise iziphumo zokulwa nomhlaza ngokuchasene nomhlaza wesikhumba obangelwa yi-UVB kunye neeseli ze-melanoma kwi-vitro. Ngelishwa, i-parthenolide inokubangela neempendulo ze-allergy, ama-blister omlomo, kunye ne-allergy contact dermatitis. Ngenxa yezi nkxalabo, ngoku isuswa ngokubanzi ngaphambi kokuba i-feverfew yongezwe kwiimveliso zobuhle.
3.4.3. Ubungqina beSayensi
Ngenxa yeengxaki ezinokubakho ngokusetyenziswa kwe-parthenolide ethangeni, ezinye iimveliso zokuthambisa ezikhoyo ngoku ezine-feverfew zisebenzisa i-parthenolide-depleted feverfew (PD-feverfew), ethi ayinayo i-sensitization potential. I-PD-feverfew inokuphucula umsebenzi wokulungisa i-DNA esikhumbeni, nto leyo enokunciphisa umonakalo we-DNA obangelwa yi-UV. Kwisifundo se-in vitro, i-PD-feverfew inciphise ukwakheka kwe-hydrogen peroxide ebangelwa yi-UV kwaye yehlisa ukukhululwa kwe-cytokine ekhuthaza ukuvuvukala. Ibonakalise imiphumo enamandla ye-antioxidant kune-comparator, iVithamini C, kunye nokunciphisa i-erythema ebangelwa yi-UV kwi-RTC yabantu abali-12.
3.5. Iti eluhlaza
3.5.1. Imbali, Ukusetyenziswa, Amabango
Iti eluhlaza ibisetyenziswa eTshayina kangangeenkulungwane ngenxa yezibonelelo zayo zempilo. Ngenxa yempembelelo yayo enamandla ye-antioxidant, kukho umdla ekuphuhlisweni kwefomyula eqinileyo nefumanekayo kwizinto eziphilayo.
3.5.2. Ukwakhiwa kunye nendlela yokusebenza
Iti eluhlaza, evela kwiCamellia sinensis, iqulethe izinto ezininzi ezisebenzayo emzimbeni ezineziphumo ezinokubangela ukuguga, kuquka icaffeine, iivithamini, kunye neepolyphenols. Iipolyphenols eziphambili kwiti eluhlaza ziicatechins, ngakumbi i-gallocatechin, i-epigallocatechin (ECG), kunye ne-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). I-Epigallocatechin-3-gallate ineempawu ze-antioxidant, i-photoprotective, i-immunomodulatory, i-anti-angiogenic, kunye ne-anti-inflammatory. Iti eluhlaza ikwanazo nee-flavonol glycoside kaempferol ezininzi, ezifunxwa kakuhle eluswini emva kokusetyenziswa kwayo ngaphandle.
3.5.3. Ubungqina beSayensi
I-Green tea extract inciphisa ukuveliswa kwe-ROS ngaphakathi kwiseli kwi-vitro kwaye inciphise i-ROS-induced necrosis. I-Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (i-green tea polyphenol) ithintela ukukhululwa kwe-hydrogen peroxide ebangelwa yi-UV, icinezela i-phosphorylation ye-MAPK, kwaye inciphisa ukudumba ngokusebenzisa i-NF-κB. Ukusebenzisa ulusu lwe-ex vivo oluvela kumfazi oneminyaka engama-31 ubudala osempilweni, ulusu olunyangwe kwangaphambili nge-white okanye i-green tea extract lubonise ukugcinwa kweeseli zeLangerhans (iiseli ezibonisa i-antigen ezinoxanduva lokungenisa amajoni omzimba eluswini) emva kokuvezwa kukukhanya kwe-UV.
Kwimodeli yegundane, ukusetyenziswa kwe-green tea extract ngaphandle kokuvezwa yi-UV kukhokelele ekunciphiseni i-erythema, ukuncipha kokungena kwe-leukocytes kulusu, kunye nokwehla komsebenzi we-myeloperoxidase. Ingathintela ne-5-α-reductase.
Izifundo ezininzi ezibandakanya abantu ziye zavavanya iingenelo ezinokubakho zokusetyenziswa kweti eluhlaza endaweni yokuthambisa. Ukusetyenziswa kwe-emulsion yeti eluhlaza endaweni yokuthambisa kuthintele i-5-α-reductase kwaye kwakhokelela ekunciphiseni ubungakanani be-microcomedone kwi-acne ye-microcomedonal. Kwisifundo esincinci seeveki ezintandathu sobuso bomntu, ikhrimu equlethe i-EGCG yehlise i-hypoxia-inducible factor 1 α (HIF-1α) kunye nokubonakaliswa kwe-vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), nto leyo ebonisa amandla okuthintela i-telangiectasias. Kwisifundo esingaboniyo kabini, nokuba yiti eluhlaza, iti emhlophe, okanye imoto kuphela yasetyenziswa kwiimpundu zabantu abali-10 abasempilweni. Ulusu lwazaliswa nge-2× minimal erythema dose (MED) ye-solar-simulated UVR. Ii-skin biopsies ezivela kwezi ndawo zibonise ukuba ukusetyenziswa kwe-green tea extract okanye emhlophe kunokunciphisa kakhulu ukuncipha kweeseli zeLangerhans, ngokusekelwe kwi-CD1a positivity. Kwakukho nokuthintela okuncinci komonakalo we-oxidative DNA obangelwa yi-UV, njengoko kungqinwa kukuncipha kwamanqanaba e-8-OHdG. Kwisifundo esahlukileyo, abantu abadala abangama-90 bavolontiye ngokwe-randomized baba ngamaqela amathathu: Akukho nyango, iti eluhlaza ekwi-topical, okanye iti emhlophe ekwi-topical. Iqela ngalinye lahlulwahlulwa ngokwamanqanaba ahlukeneyo emitha ye-UV. I-in vivo sun protection factor ifunyenwe imalunga ne-SPF 1.
3.6. IMarigold
3.6.1. Imbali, Ukusetyenziswa, Amabango
IMarigold, iCalendula officinalis, sisityalo esinamagqabi anuka kamnandi esinokuba luncedo ekunyangeni. Isetyenziswe kumayeza esintu eYurophu nase-United States njengeyeza lokunyanga ukutsha, imivumbo, amanxeba kunye nokurhawuzelelwa. IMarigold ikwabonakalise imiphumo yokulwa nomhlaza kwiimodeli zomhlaza wolusu ongengomelanoma.
3.6.2. Ukwakhiwa kunye nendlela yokusebenza
Iikhemikhali eziphambili ze-marigolds zii-steroids, ii-terpenoids, ii-triterpene alcohols zasimahla nezi-esterified, ii-phenolic acids, ii-flavonoids, kunye nezinye iikhompawundi. Nangona olunye uphando lubonise ukuba ukusetyenziswa kwe-marigold extract ngaphandle kwesikhumba kunokunciphisa ubunzima kunye nentlungu ye-radiation dermatitis kwizigulana ezifumana i-radiation ngenxa yomhlaza webele, ezinye iimvavanyo zeklinikhi azibonisanga ukuba ngcono xa kuthelekiswa nokusetyenziswa kwe-aqueous cream yodwa.
3.6.3. Ubungqina beSayensi
IMarigold ine-antioxidant ebonakalisiweyo kunye nefuthe le-cytotoxic kwiiseli zomhlaza womntu kwimodeli yeseli yolusu lomntu kwi-vitro. Kwisifundo esahlukileyo se-in vitro, ikhrimu equlethe ioyile ye-calendula ihlolwe nge-UV spectrophotometric kwaye yafunyaniswa ine-absorbance spectrum kuluhlu lwe-290-320 nm; oku kwathathwa njengokuthetha ukuba ukusetyenziswa kwale krimu kunika ukhuseleko oluhle elangeni. Nangona kunjalo, kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuba olu yayingelovavanyo lwe-in vivo olubala idosi encinci ye-erythema kubantu abazithandelayo kwaye akukacaci ukuba oku kuya kuguqulelwa njani kwizilingo zeklinikhi.
Kwimodeli ye-murine ye-in vivo, i-marigold extract ibonakalise isiphumo esinamandla se-antioxidant emva kokuvezwa yi-UV. Kwisifundo esahlukileyo, esibandakanya iigundane ze-albino, ukusetyenziswa kwe-calendula essential oil phezu kwayo kunciphisa i-malondialdehyde (uphawu loxinzelelo lwe-oxidative) ngelixa kunyusa amanqanaba e-catalase, i-glutathione, i-superoxide dismutase, kunye ne-ascorbic acid eluswini.
Kwisifundo seeveki ezisibhozo esingakhange sibonwe ngabantu abangama-21, ukusetyenziswa kwekrimu ye-calendula ezidleleni kwandisa ukuqina kolusu kodwa akuzange kube nefuthe elibalulekileyo ekuqineni kolusu.
Umda onokubakho ekusetyenzisweni kwe-marigold kwizimonyo kukuba i-marigold yimbangela eyaziwayo ye-allergy contact dermatitis, njengamanye amalungu amaninzi osapho lweCompositae.
3.7. Irharnati
3.7.1. Imbali, Ukusetyenziswa, Amabango
Ipomegranate, iPunica granatum, inamandla okulwa ne-antioxidant kwaye isetyenzisiwe kwiimveliso ezininzi njenge-antioxidant esetyenziswa apha ekhaya. Umxholo wayo ophezulu wokulwa ne-antioxidant wenza ukuba ibe sisithako esinomdla kwizithambiso zokuhombisa.
3.7.2. Ukwakhiwa kunye nendlela yokusebenza
Izinto ezisebenzayo ngokwebhayoloji zepomegranate zii-tannins, ii-anthocyanins, i-ascorbic acid, i-niacin, i-potassium, kunye nee-alkaloids ze-piperidine. Ezi zinto zisebenzayo ngokwebhayoloji zinokukhutshwa kwijusi, imbewu, ixolo, ixolo, ingcambu, okanye isiqu sepomegranate. Ezinye zezi zinto kucingelwa ukuba zinefuthe lokulwa nomhlaza, ukuchasana nokudumba, ukuchasana neentsholongwane, i-antioxidant, kunye ne-photoprotective. Ukongeza, ipomegranate ngumthombo onamandla we-polyphenols. I-Ellegic acid, inxalenye ye-pomegranate extract, inokunciphisa umbala wesikhumba. Ngenxa yokuba sisithako esithembisayo sokuchasana nokwaluphala, izifundo ezininzi ziphande iindlela zokwandisa ukungena kwesikhumba sale khemikhali ukuze isetyenziswe ngaphakathi.
3.7.3. Ubungqina beSayensi
I-Pomegranate fruit extract ikhusela ii-fibroblasts zabantu, kwi-vitro, ekufeni kweeseli ezibangelwa yi-UV; mhlawumbi ngenxa yokuncipha kokusebenza kwe-NF-κB, ukwehla kwe-proapoptotic caspace-3, kunye nokwanda kokulungiswa kwe-DNA. Ibonisa iziphumo ezikhuthaza ukulwa ne-tumor yesikhumba kwi-vitro kwaye ithintela ukuguqulwa kwe-UVB kweendlela ze-NF-κB kunye ne-MAPK. Ukusetyenziswa kwe-pomegranate rind extract kunciphisa i-COX-2 kwisikhumba sengulube esisandula ukukhutshwa, okubangela iziphumo ezibalulekileyo zokulwa nokuvuvukala. Nangona i-ellegic acid idla ngokucingelwa ukuba yeyona nto isebenzayo kwi-pomegranate extract, imodeli ye-murine ibonise umsebenzi ophezulu wokulwa nokuvuvukala nge-standard pomegranate rind extract xa kuthelekiswa ne-ellegic acid yodwa. Ukusetyenziswa kwe-microemulsion ye-pomegranate extract kusetyenziswa i-polysorbate surfactant (Tween 80®) kuthelekiso lweeveki ezili-12 oluqhekekileyo kunye nabantu abali-11, kubonise ukwehla kwe-melanin (ngenxa yokuthintela i-tyrosinase) kunye nokuncipha kwe-erythema xa kuthelekiswa nolawulo lwezithuthi.
3.8. Isoya
3.8.1. Imbali, Ukusetyenziswa, Amabango
Iimbotyi zesoya zikutya okuneproteni eninzi okunezinto ezisebenzayo emzimbeni ezinokuba nemiphumo yokulwa nokwaluphala. Ngokukodwa, iimbotyi zesoya ziphezulu kwi-isoflavones, ezinokuba nemiphumo yokulwa nomhlaza kunye nemiphumo efana ne-estrogen ngenxa yesakhiwo se-diphenolic. Ezi ziphumo ezifana ne-estrogen zinokulwa nezinye zeziphumo zokuya exesheni ekwaluphaleni kolusu.
3.8.2. Ukwakhiwa kunye nendlela yokusebenza
Isoya, evela kwiGlycine maxi, iphezulu kwiproteni kwaye inee-isoflavones, kuquka i-glycitein, i-equol, i-daidzein, kunye ne-genistein. Ezi isoflavones, ezikwabizwa ngokuba yi-phytoestrogens, zinokuba nefuthe le-estrogen ebantwini.
3.8.3. Ubungqina beSayensi
Iimbotyi zesoya ziqulathe ii-isoflavones ezininzi ezineengenelo zokulwa nokwaluphala. Phakathi kwezinye iziphumo zebhayoloji, i-glycitein ibonisa iziphumo ze-antioxidant. Ii-fibroblast zesikhumba ezinyangwe nge-glycitein zibonise ukwanda kokukhula kweeseli kunye nokufuduka, ukwanda kokwenziwa kweentlobo ze-collagen I kunye ne-III, kunye nokunciphisa i-MMP-1. Kwisifundo esahlukileyo, i-soy extract idityaniswe ne-haematococcus extract (i-algae yamanzi acocekileyo nayo iphezulu kwi-antioxidants), nto leyo eyanciphisa ukubonakaliswa kwe-MMP-1 mRNA kunye neproteni. I-Daidzein, isoflavone yesoya, ibonakalise iziphumo zokulwa nemibimbi, ukukhanya kolusu, kunye nokufumisa ulusu. I-Diadzein ingasebenza ngokuvula i-estrogen-receptor-β eluswini, okubangela ukubonakaliswa okuphuculweyo kwee-antioxidants zendalo kunye nokuncipha kokubonakaliswa kwezinto ezibangela ukwanda kunye nokufuduka kwe-keratinocyte. I-isoflavonoid equol evela kwi-soy yonyusa i-collagen kunye ne-elastin kwaye yanciphisa ii-MMP kwinkcubeko yeseli.
Izifundo ezongezelelweyo ze-murine kwi-vivo zibonisa ukwehla kokufa kweeseli okubangelwa yi-UVB kunye nokwehla kobukhulu be-epidermal kwiiseli emva kokusetyenziswa kwe-isoflavone extracts. Kwisifundo sovavanyo lwabasetyhini abangama-30 abasele beyekile ukuya exesheni, ukunikwa ngomlomo i-isoflavone extract kangangeenyanga ezintandathu kubangele ukwanda kobukhulu be-epidermal kunye nokwanda kwe-collagen yesikhumba njengoko kulinganiswa yi-biopsies yesikhumba kwiindawo ezikhuselwe lilanga. Kwisifundo esahlukileyo, ii-isoflavones zesoya ezicociweyo zithintele ukufa kwe-keratinocyte ebangelwa yi-UV kwaye zanciphisa i-TEWL, ubukhulu be-epidermal, kunye ne-erythema kulusu lwempuku oluvezwe yi-UV.
I-RCT ejongeka ngathi i-double-blind yabasetyhini abangama-30 abaneminyaka engama-45-55 ithelekise ukusetyenziswa kwe-estrogen kunye ne-genistein (i-soy isoflavone) eluswini kangangeeveki ezingama-24. Nangona iqela elisebenzisa i-estrogen eluswini libe neziphumo ezibalaseleyo, omabini la maqela abonise ukwanda kwe-collagen yobuso yohlobo lwe-I kunye ne-III ngokusekelwe kwi-biopsies yesikhumba se-preauricular skin. Ii-oligopeptides ze-soy zinokunciphisa i-erythema index eluswini oluvezwe yi-UVB (ingalo yangaphambili) kwaye zinciphise iiseli ezitshiswe lilanga kunye ne-cyclobutene pyrimidine dimers kwiiseli ze-foreskin ezikhanyiswa yi-UVB ex vivo. Uvavanyo lweklinikhi lweeveki ezili-12 olulawulwa yi-vehicle-blind-controlled-regularly vehicle-controlled-iveki ezili-12 olubandakanya abantu abangama-65 ababhinqileyo abanomonakalo ophakathi wobuso lubonise ukuphucuka kombala onamabala, amabala, ukufiphala, imigca emincinci, ukuthungwa kwesikhumba, kunye nethoni yesikhumba xa kuthelekiswa nesithuthi. Zizonke, ezi zinto zinokubonelela ngeziphumo ezinokubakho zokulwa nokwaluphala, kodwa kufuneka uvavanyo lweklinikhi oluqinileyo olucwangcisiweyo ukuze lubonise ngokwaneleyo inzuzo yalo.
4. Ingxoxo
Iimveliso zezityalo, kuquka nezo kuthethwe ngazo apha, zineziphumo ezinokubakho zokulwa nokwaluphala. Iindlela zezityalo zokulwa nokwaluphala ziquka amandla okuhlutha ii-antioxidants ezisetyenziswa phezulu, ukhuseleko oluphezulu lwelanga, ukwanda kokufuma kwesikhumba, kunye neziphumo ezininzi ezikhokelela ekwandeni kokwakheka kwe-collagen okanye ukuncipha kokuqhekeka kwe-collagen. Ezinye zezi ziphumo zincinci xa zithelekiswa namayeza, kodwa oku akunciphisi inzuzo yazo xa zisetyenziswa kunye nezinye iindlela ezifana nokuphepha ilanga, ukusetyenziswa kwezithambisi zelanga, ukufuma kwemihla ngemihla kunye nonyango olufanelekileyo lwezonyango kwiimeko zesikhumba ezikhoyo.
Ukongeza, ii-botanicals zibonelela ngezinye izithako ezisebenzayo kwi-biologically kwizigulana ezikhetha ukusebenzisa izithako "zendalo" kuphela eluswini lwazo. Nangona ezi zithako zifumaneka kwindalo, kubalulekile ukugxininisa kwizigulana ukuba oku akuthethi ukuba ezi zithako azinazo iziphumo ezibi, eneneni, iimveliso ezininzi zezityalo zaziwa njengesizathu esinokubangela i-allergy contact dermatitis.
Njengoko iimveliso zobuhle zingadingi bungqina bufanayo ukuze zibonakalise ukusebenza kakuhle, kudla ngokuba nzima ukumisela ukuba amabango emiphumo yokulwa nokwaluphala ayinyani na. Nangona kunjalo, uninzi lwezityalo ezidweliswe apha zinemiphumo yokulwa nokwaluphala, kodwa kufuneka uvavanyo oluqinileyo lweklinikhi. Nangona kunzima ukuqikelela ukuba ezi arhente zezityalo ziya kubanceda njani ngokuthe ngqo izigulane kunye nabathengi kwixesha elizayo, kusenokwenzeka ukuba uninzi lwezi zityalo, iifomyula ezizibandakanya njengezithako ziya kuqhubeka nokwaziswa njengeemveliso zokhathalelo lolusu kwaye ukuba zigcina umda obanzi wokhuseleko, ukwamkelwa okuphezulu kwabathengi, kunye nokufikeleleka okuphezulu, ziya kuhlala ziyinxalenye yeenkqubo zokhathalelo lolusu rhoqo, zibonelela ngeenzuzo ezincinci kwimpilo yolusu. Nangona kunjalo, kwinani elincinci lezi arhente zezityalo, impembelelo enkulu kuluntu ngokubanzi inokufumaneka ngokuqinisa ubungqina besenzo sazo sebhayoloji, ngovavanyo oluqhelekileyo lwe-biomarker oluphezulu kwaye emva koko kujoliswe kwiinjongo ezithembisayo kuvavanyo lweklinikhi.
Ixesha lokuthumela: Meyi-11-2023
