Njengoko ulusu ludala, kukho ukwehla komsebenzi we-physiologic. Olu tshintsho luphenjelelwa zizinto zombini zangaphakathi (chronologic) kunye nezangaphandle (ikakhulu zibangelwa yi-UV). I-Botanicals inikezela ngeenzuzo ezinokuthi zilwe nezinye iimpawu zokuguga. Apha, siphonononga iibhotani ezikhethiweyo kunye nobungqina besayensi emva kwamabango abo okulwa nokuguga. I-Botanicals inokubonelela nge-anti-ukudumba, i-antioxidant, i-moisturizing, i-UV ekhuselayo, kunye nezinye iziphumo. Ubuninzi beebhotani zidweliswe njengezithako kwizinto zokuthambisa ezidumileyo kunye nezithambiso, kodwa zimbalwa ezikhethiweyo ezixoxwa apha. Ezi zikhethwe ngokusekelwe ekufumanekeni kwedatha yesayensi, umdla wobuqu wababhali, kunye nokubonwa "ukuthandwa" kwemveliso yangoku ye-cosmetic kunye ne-cosmeceutical. Iibhotani eziphononongwe apha ziquka ioyile yeargan, ioyile yekhokhonathi, icrocin, feverfew, iti eluhlaza, imarigold, irharnati, kunye nesoya.
Amagama angundoqo: ibhotanical; ukuchasana nokuguga; ioli yeargan; ioli yekhokhonathi; crocin; imfiva; iti eluhlaza; i-marigold; irharnati; soya
3.1. Ioli yeArgan
3.1.1. Imbali, ukusetyenziswa, kunye namaBango
Ioyile yeArgan ixhaphakile eMorocco kwaye iveliswa kwimbewu yeArgania sponosa L. Ineendlela ezininzi ezisetyenziswa ngokwesintu njengokupheka, ukunyanga izifo zolusu, kunye nokhathalelo lwesikhumba kunye neenwele.
3.1.2. Ukuqulunqwa kunye neNdlela yokuSebenza
Ioli yeArgan yenziwe ngamafutha angama-80% e-monounsaturated kunye ne-20% ye-fatty acids egcweleyo kwaye iqulethe i-polyphenols, i-tocopherols, i-sterols, i-squalene, kunye ne-triterpene alcohol.
3.1.3. Ubungqina Benzululwazi
Ioyile yeArgan ibisetyenziswa ngokwesiko eMorocco ukunciphisa umbala wobuso, kodwa isiseko senzululwazi seli bango sasingaqondwa ngaphambili. Kwisifundo semouse, ioli ye-argan inhibited tyrosinase kunye ne-dopachrome tautomerase expression kwiiseli ze-melanoma ze-murine ze-B16, okubangelwa ukuncipha kwe-dose kumxholo we-melanin. Oku kuphakamisa ukuba ioli ye-argan ingaba yi-inhibitor enamandla ye-melanin biosynthesis, kodwa iimvavanyo zokulawula i-randomized (RTC) kwizifundo zabantu ziyadingeka ukuze kuqinisekiswe le ngcamango.
I-RTC encinci ye-60 yabasetyhini be-post-menopausal bacebise ukuba ukusetyenziswa kwemihla ngemihla kunye / okanye ukusetyenziswa kwe-topical yeoli ye-argan kunciphisa ukulahleka kwamanzi e-transepidermal (TEWL), ukuphuculwa kwe-elasticity yesikhumba, ngokusekelwe ekunyukeni kwe-R2 (ukunyuka okukhulu kwesikhumba), i-R5 (i-net elasticity yolusu), kunye ne-R7 (i-biological elasticity) iiparamitha kunye nokuncipha kwexesha le-resonance running (RRT) (umlinganiselo ochaseneyo nokwaluka kolusu). Amaqela ayenziwe ngokungenamkhethe ukuba atye ioli yomnquma okanye ioyile yeargan. Omabini amaqela asebenzisa ioyile yeargan kwisandla sasekhohlo kuphela. Imilinganiselo ithathwe kwizandla zevolar zasekunene nasekhohlo. Ukuphuculwa kwe-elasticity kubonwe kumaqela omabini esihlahleni apho ioli ye-argan yayisetyenziswe ngokusemgangathweni, kodwa kwisandla apho ioli ye-argan yayingasetyenziswanga kuphela iqela elidla ioli ye-argan linokwanda okukhulu kwe-elasticity [31]. Oku kubangelwa ukunyuka kwe-antioxidant kwioli ye-argan xa kuthelekiswa neoli yeoli. Kucingelwa ukuba oku kungenxa yeVithamin E yayo kunye nomxholo we-ferulic acid, ezaziwa ngokuba zii-antioxidants.
3.2. Ioyile yeKhokhonathi
3.2.1. Imbali, ukusetyenziswa, kunye namaBango
I-oyile ye-coconut ivela kwisiqhamo esomileyo se-Cocos nucifera kwaye inokusetyenziswa okuninzi, okwembali kunye nesimanje. Isetyenziswe njengevumba elimnandi, ulusu, kunye nearhente yokulungisa iinwele, nakwiimveliso ezininzi zokuthambisa. Ngelixa ioyile yekhokhonathi inezithako ezininzi, ezibandakanya i-coconut acid, i-hydrogenated coconut acid, kunye ne-hydrogenated coconut oyile, siya kuxoxa ngamabango ophando ahambelana kakhulu neoyile yecoconut enyulu (VCO), elungiselelwe ngaphandle kobushushu.
Ioyile yeCoconut isetyenziselwe ukuthambisa ulusu losana kwaye inokuba luncedo kunyango lwe-atopic dermatitis kuzo zombini iipropathi zayo zokuthambisa kunye neziphumo zayo ezinokuthi zibekho kwi-Staphylococcus aureus kunye nezinye iintsholongwane zesikhumba kwizigulana ze-atopic. Ioyile yeCoconut ibonakaliswe ukunciphisa i-S. aureus colonization eluswini lwabantu abadala abane-atopic dermatitis kwi-RTC eyimfama kabini.
3.2.2. Ukuqulunqwa kunye neNdlela yokuSebenza
Ioyile yeKhokhonathi yenziwe nge-90-95% ye-triglycerides egcweleyo (i-lauric acid, i-myristic acid, i-caprylic acid, i-capric acid, kunye ne-palmitic acid). Oku kuchasene neoli eninzi yemifuno / yeziqhamo, eziqulunqwe kakhulu ngamafutha angaxutywanga. I-Triglycerides egcweleyo esetyenzisiweyo isetyenziselwe ukuthambisa ulusu njenge-emollient ngokuthambisa imiphetho egobileyo ye-corneocytes kwaye ugcwalise izithuba phakathi kwazo.
3.2.3. Ubungqina Benzululwazi
Ioyile yeKhokhonathi inokuthambisa ulusu olomileyo olugugayo. Iipesenti ezingamashumi amathandathu anesibini ze-fatty acids kwi-VCO zinobude obufanayo kwaye i-92% igcwele, evumela ukupakishwa okuqinisiweyo okukhokelela kwimpembelelo enkulu ye-occlusive kuneoli yeoli. I-triglycerides kwioli yekakhukhunathi ichithwa yi-lipases kwizityalo eziqhelekileyo zesikhumba ukuya kwi-glycerin kunye ne-fatty acids. I-Glycerin yi-humectant enamandla, ekhanga amanzi kwi-corneal layer ye-epidermis evela kwindawo yangaphandle kunye ne-skin layers enzulu. I-fatty acids kwi-VCO inomxholo ophantsi we-linoleic acid, ofanelekileyo kuba i-linoleic acid inokucaphukisa ulusu. Ioyile yeCoconut iphezulu kuneoyile yamaminerali ekunciphiseni i-TEWL kwizigulana ezine-atopic dermatitis kwaye iyasebenza kwaye ikhuselekile njengeoyile yamaminerali ekunyangeni i-xerosis.
I-asidi ye-Lauric, i-precursor ye-monolaurin kunye nenxalenye ebalulekileyo ye-VCO, inokuba neempawu ezichasayo, ikwazi ukulungelelanisa ukwanda kweeseli ze-immune kwaye ibe noxanduva lwezinye iimpembelelo ze-antimicrobial ze-VCO. I-VCO iqulethe amanqanaba aphezulu e-ferulic acid kunye ne-p-coumaric acid (zombini i-phenolic acids), kwaye amanqanaba aphezulu ala ma-phenolic acids ahambelana nokunyuka kwe-antioxidant. I-Phenolic acids iyasebenza ngokuchasene nomonakalo owenziwe yi-UV. Nangona kunjalo, ngaphandle kwamabango okuba i-oyile yekhokhonathi inokusebenza njenge-sunscreen, izifundo ze-in vitro zibonisa ukuba zibonelela kancinci-ku-no-nokungabikho kwe-UV-blocking.
Ukongeza kwiziphumo zayo zokuthambisa kunye ne-antioxidant, iimodeli zezilwanyana zibonisa ukuba i-VCO inokunciphisa ixesha lokuphulukisa amanxeba. Kwakukho inqanaba elongezelelweyo le-pepsin-soluble collagen (i-collagen ephezulu ye-cross-linking) kumanxeba aphethwe yi-VCO xa kuthelekiswa nokulawula. I-Histopathology ibonise ukwanda kwe-fibroblast kunye ne-neovascularization kula manxeba. Izifundo ezingakumbi ziyafuneka ukuze ubone ukuba ukusetyenziswa kwe-VCO ye-topical inokunyusa amanqanaba e-collagen kulusu lomntu olulupheleyo.
3.3. Crocin
3.3.1. Imbali, ukusetyenziswa, amaBango
I-Crocin yi-biologically esebenzayo ye-safron, ephuma kwi-stigma eyomileyo ye-Crocus sativus L. I-Saffron iyalinywa kumazwe amaninzi aquka i-Iran, i-Indiya, ne-Greece, kwaye isetyenziswe kumayeza esintu ukuphelisa izifo ezahlukeneyo ezibandakanya ukudandatheka, ukudumba. , isifo sesibindi, kunye nabanye abaninzi.
3.3.2. Ukuqulunqwa kunye neNdlela yokuSebenza
I-Crocin inoxanduva lombala wesafron. I-Crocin ikwafumaneka kwisiqhamo se-Gardenia jasminoides Ellis. Ihlelwa njenge-carotenoid glycoside.
3.3.3. Ubungqina Benzululwazi
I-Crocin ineempembelelo ze-antioxidant, ikhusela i-squalene kwi-peroxidation eyenziwe yi-UV, kwaye ikhusela ukukhululwa kwabalamli abavuthayo. Impembelelo ye-antioxidant ibonakaliswe kwii-assays ze-in vitro ezibonisa umsebenzi ophezulu we-antioxidant xa kuthelekiswa ne-Vitamin C. Ukongezelela, i-crocin inhibisa i-UVA-induced cell membrane peroxidation kwaye inqanda ukubonakaliswa kwe-multiple pro-inflammatory mediators kuquka i-IL-8, i-PGE-2, i-IL. -6, TNF-α, IL-1α, kunye ne-LTB4. Kwakhona kunciphisa ukubonakaliswa kweendlela ezininzi ezixhomekeke kwi-NF-κB. Kuphononongo olusebenzisa ii-fibroblasts zabantu ezikhulisiweyo, i-crocin yanciphisa i-UV-induced ROS, yakhuthaza ukubonakaliswa kweprotein ye-matrix engaphandle kwe-Col-1, kwaye yehlisa inani leeseli ezine-phenotypes ze-senescent emva kwemitha ye-UV. Iyanciphisa imveliso ye-ROS kunye nemida ye-apoptosis. I-Crocin iboniswe ukucinezela i-ERK/MAPK/NF-κB/STAT iindlela zokubonisa kwiiseli ze-HaCaT kwi-vitro. Nangona i-crocin inamandla njenge-cosmeceutical yokulwa nokuguga, i-compound i-labile. Ukusetyenziswa kwe-nanostructured lipid dispersions yolawulo lwama-topical luye lwaphandwa ngeziphumo ezithembisayo. Ukumisela imiphumo ye-crocin kwi-vivo, imizekelo eyongezelelweyo yezilwanyana kunye nezilingo zeklinikhi ezingahleliwe ziyafuneka.
3.4. Umkhuhlane
3.4.1. Imbali, ukusetyenziswa, amaBango
I-Feverfew, i-Tanacetum parthenium, isityalo esihlala sihlala sisetyenziselwa iinjongo ezininzi kumayeza esintu.
3.4.2. Ukuqulunqwa kunye neNdlela yokuSebenza
I-Feverfew iqukethe i-parthenolide, i-sesquiterpene lactone, enokuthi ibe noxanduva lwezinye iimpembelelo zayo ezichasayo, ngokuthintela i-NF-κB. Oku kuvinjelwa kwe-NF-κB kubonakala kuzimeleyo kwimiphumo ye-antioxidant ye-parthenolide. I-Parthenolide ikwabonise iziphumo ze-anticancer ngokuchasene nomhlaza wolusu we-UVB kunye neeseli ze-melanoma kwi-vitro. Ngelishwa, i-parthenolide inokubangela ukuguquguquka, amadyunguza omlomo, kunye ne-alergic contact dermatitis. Ngenxa yezi nkxalabo, ngoku iyasuswa ngokubanzi phambi kokuba i-feverfew yongezwe kwiimveliso zokuthambisa.
3.4.3. Ubungqina Benzululwazi
Ngenxa yeengxaki ezinokubakho ngokusetyenziswa kwesihloko se-parthenolide, ezinye iimveliso zokuthambisa zangoku eziqulethe i-feverfew zisebenzisa i-parthenolide-depleted feverfew (PD-feverfew), ebanga ukuba ayinakho ukuvuselela amandla. I-PD-feverfew inokuphucula umsebenzi ongapheliyo wokulungisa i-DNA eluswini, enokuthi yehlise umonakalo we-UV-induced DNA. Kuphononongo lwe-in vitro, i-PD-feverfew yanciphisa ukwenziwa kwe-hydrogen peroxide eyenziwe yi-UV kwaye yehla ukukhutshwa kwe-cytokine e-pro-ukudumba. Ibonise iziphumo ezinamandla ze-antioxidant kune-comarator, i-Vitamin C, kunye nokunciphisa i-UV-induced erythema kwi-RTC yesifundo se-12.
3.5. Iti eluhlaza
3.5.1. Imbali, ukusetyenziswa, amaBango
Iti eluhlaza isetyenzisiwe ngenxa yeenzuzo zayo zempilo e-China kangangeenkulungwane. Ngenxa yeziphumo zayo ezinamandla ze-antioxidant, kukho umdla ekuphuhliseni i-stable, bioavailable topical formulation.
3.5.2. Ukuqulunqwa kunye neNdlela yokuSebenza
Iti eluhlaza, evela kwiCamellia sinensis, iqulethe iikhompawundi ezininzi ze-bioactive ezineziphumo zokuchasa ukuguga, kubandakanya icaffeine, iivithamini, kunye neepolyphenols. Iipolyphenols ezinkulu kwi-green tea yi-catechin, ngokukodwa i-gallocatechin, i-epigallocatechin (ECG), kunye ne-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). I-Epigallocatechin-3-gallate ine-antioxidant, i-photoprotective, i-immunomodulatory, i-anti-angiogenic, kunye ne-anti-inflammatory properties. Iti eluhlaza ikwaqulathe izixa eziphezulu zeflavonol glycoside kaempferol, ethi ifunxe kakuhle eluswini emva kokufakwa kwesihloko.
3.5.3. Ubungqina Benzululwazi
Isicatshulwa seti eluhlaza kunciphisa imveliso ye-ROS ye-intracellular in vitro kwaye iyancipha i-ROS-induced necrosis. I-Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (i-polyphenol ye-tea eluhlaza) inqanda ukukhutshwa kwe-UV ye-hydrogen peroxide, icinezela i-phosphorylation ye-MAPK, kwaye iyancipha ukuvuvukala ngokusebenza kwe-NF-κB. Usebenzisa ulusu lwe-ex vivo olusuka kowasetyhini osempilweni oneminyaka engama-31 ubudala, ulusu olufakwe iti emhlophe okanye eluhlaza lubonisa ukugcinwa kweeseli zeLangerhans (iiseli ezibonisa i-antigen ezinoxanduva lokungeniswa kokugonywa eluswini) emva kokuvezwa kokukhanya kwe-UV.
Kwimodeli yempuku, usetyenziso oluphezulu lwesicatshulwa seti eluhlaza ngaphambi kokuvezwa kwe-UV kukhokelele ekunciphiseni i-erythema, ukuncipha kokungena kwe-leukocytes, kunye nokuncipha komsebenzi we-myeloperoxidase. Iyakwazi nokuthintela i-5-α-reductase.
Izifundo ezininzi ezibandakanya izifundo zabantu ziye zavavanya iingenelo ezinokubakho zokusetyenziswa kweti eluhlaza. Ukusetyenziswa kwesihloko se-emulsion ye-green tea inhibited 5-α-reductase kwaye yakhokelela ekunciphiseni ubungakanani be-microcomedone kwi-acne microcomedonal. Kwisifundo esincinci seeveki ezintandathu zobuso bomntu, i-cream equkethe i-EGCG iyancipha i-hypoxia-inducible factor 1 α (HIF-1α) kunye ne-vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), ebonisa amandla okuthintela i-telangiectasias. Kuphononongo oluphindwe kabini, iti eluhlaza, iti emhlophe, okanye isithuthi sisetyenziswe kuphela kwiimpundu zamavolontiya ali-10 asempilweni. Emva koko ulusu lwaxutywa nge-2 × encinci ye-erythema dose (MED) ye-solar-simulated UVR. Ulusu olusuka kwezi sayithi lubonise ukuba ukusetyenziswa kwesicatshulwa seti eluhlaza okanye emhlophe kunokunciphisa kakhulu ukuncipha kweeseli zeLangerhans, ngokusekelwe kwi-CD1a positivity. Kwakhona kwakukho uthintelo oluyinxenye lomonakalo we-UV-induced oxidative DNA, njengoko kubonakaliswe ngamanqanaba anciphayo e-8-OHdG. Kuphononongo olwahlukileyo, amavolontiya amadala angama-90 aye ahlelwa ngokwamaqela amathathu: Akukho nyango, iti eluhlaza, okanye iti emhlophe. Iqela ngalinye lahlulwa ngokubhekele phaya ngokwamanqanaba ahlukeneyo emitha yeUV. I-in vivo yokukhusela ilanga ifunyenwe malunga ne-SPF 1.
3.6. Marigold
3.6.1. Imbali, ukusetyenziswa, amaBango
I-Marigold, iCalendula officinalis, sisityalo esinevumba elimnandi elidubulayo elinokuba luncedo ekunyangweni. Isetyenziswe kumayeza esintu eYurophu nase-United States njengeyeza eliphambili lokutshisa, ukugruzuka, ukusikeka kunye nerhashalala. U-Marigold uye wabonisa imiphumo ye-anticancer kwiimodeli ze-murine ze-non-melanoma yomhlaza wesikhumba.
3.6.2. Ukuqulunqwa kunye neNdlela yokuSebenza
Amacandelo eekhemikhali eziphambili ze-marigolds zi-steroids, i-terpenoids, i-alcohols yamahhala kunye ne-esterified triterpene, i-phenolic acids, i-flavonoids, kunye nezinye iikhompawundi. Nangona olunye uphononongo lubonise ukuba ukusetyenziswa kwe-topical ye-marigold extract kunokunciphisa ubukhali kunye neentlungu ze-radiation dermatitis kwizigulana ezifumana i-radiation yomhlaza webele, ezinye iimvavanyo zekliniki azibonakalisi ukongama xa zithelekiswa nokusetyenziswa kwe-aqueous cream kuphela.
3.6.3. Ubungqina Benzululwazi
UMarigold ubonakalise amandla e-antioxidant kunye neziphumo ze-cytotoxic kwiiseli zomhlaza womntu kwi-in vitro imodeli yeseli yesikhumba somntu. Kwisifundo se-in vitro esahlukileyo, i-cream equkethe ioli ye-calendula yavavanywa nge-UV spectrophotometric kwaye ifunyenwe i-absorbence spectrum kuluhlu lwe-290-320 nm; oku kwathathwa ukuba kuthetha ukuba ukusetyenziswa kwale cream kunika ukhuseleko oluhle elangeni. Kubalulekile ukuqaphela, nangona kunjalo, ukuba olu yayingelovavanyo lwe-vivo olubale ubuncinci bedosi ye-erythema kumavolontiya angabantu kwaye akucaci ukuba oku kuya kuguqulelwa njani kulingo lwezonyango.
Kwimodeli ye-vivo murine, i-marigold extract ibonise umphumo onamandla we-antioxidant emva kokuvezwa kwe-UV. Kwisifundo esahlukileyo, esibandakanya iigundane ze-albino, ukusetyenziswa kwe-topical ye-calendula ioli efunekayo iyancipha i-malondialdehyde (umakishi woxinzelelo lwe-oxidative) ngelixa ukwandisa amanqanaba e-catalase, i-glutathione, i-superoxide dismutase, kunye ne-ascorbic acid esikhumbeni.
Kwisifundo esineeveki ezisibhozo esisodwa esingaboniyo kunye nezifundo zabantu ze-21, ukusetyenziswa kwe-calendula cream ezidleleni kwandisa ukuqina kwesikhumba kodwa akuzange kube nemiphumo ebalulekileyo kwi-skin elasticity.
Umda onokuthi usetyenziswe ekusebenziseni i-marigold kwizinto zokuthambisa kukuba i-marigold yimbangela eyaziwayo ye-allergic contact dermatitis, njengamanye amalungu amaninzi osapho lweCompositae.
3.7. Irharnati
3.7.1. Imbali, ukusetyenziswa, amaBango
Irharnati, iPunica granatum, inamandla okulwa ne-antioxidant kwaye isetyenziswe kwiimveliso ezininzi njenge-topical antioxidant. Umxholo wayo ophezulu we-antioxidant wenza ukuba ibe yinto enomdla enokubakho kwi-cosmetic formulations.
3.7.2. Ukuqulunqwa kunye neNdlela yokuSebenza
Amalungu e-biologically asebenzayo erharnathi zi-tannins, i-anthocyanins, i-ascorbic acid, i-niacin, i-potassium, kunye ne-alkaloids ye-piperidine. La malungu asebenzayo ebhayoloji anokukhutshwa kwincindi, imbewu, ixolo, ixolo, ingcambu, okanye isikhondo serharnati. Ezinye zezi zixhobo zicingelwa ukuba zine-antitumor, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, antioxidant, kunye nemiphumo ye-photoprotective. Ukongeza, irharnati ngumthombo onamandla wepolyphenols. I-Ellegic acid, icandelo le-pomegranate extract, inokunciphisa umbala wesikhumba. Ngenxa yokuba sisithako esithembisayo sokuchasa ukwaluphala, izifundo ezininzi ziye zaphanda iindlela zokunyusa ukungena kwesikhumba kule khompawundi ukuze kusetyenziswe izihloko.
3.7.3. Ubungqina Benzululwazi
Isiqhamo sePomegranate sikhusela iifibroblasts zabantu, kwi-vitro, kwi-UV-induced cell death; mhlawumbi ngenxa yokunciphisa ukusebenza kwe-NF-κB, ukunciphisa i-proapoptotic caspace-3, kunye nokwandisa ukulungiswa kwe-DNA. Ibonisa i-anti-skin-tumor yokukhuthaza iziphumo kwi-vitro kwaye inqanda i-UVB-induced modulation ye-NF-κB kunye neendlela ze-MAPK. Ukusetyenziswa kwe-topical ye-pomegranate rind extract yehlisa i-COX-2 kwisikhumba se-porcine esanda kukhutshwa, okukhokelela kwimiphumo ebalulekileyo yokuchasana nokudumba. Nangona i-ellegic acid idla ngokucingelwa ukuba iyona nto isebenzayo ye-pomegranate extract, imodeli ye-murine ibonise umsebenzi ophezulu wokuchasana nokuvuvukala kunye ne-standardized pomegranate rind extract xa kuthelekiswa ne-ellegic acid yodwa. Ukusetyenziswa kwe-topical ye-microemulsion ye-pomegranate extract usebenzisa i-polysorbate surfactant (Tween 80®) kwi-12-iveki yokuhlukana kobuso kunye nezifundo ze-11, ibonise ukunciphisa i-melanin (ngenxa ye-tyrosinase inhibition) kunye nokunciphisa i-erythema xa kuthelekiswa nokulawulwa kwesithuthi.
3.8. ISoya
3.8.1. Imbali, ukusetyenziswa, amaBango
Iimbotyi zesoya kukutya okuneprotheyini ephezulu kunye namalungu e-bioactive anokuba neziphumo zokuchasa ukuguga. Ngokukodwa, iimbotyi zesoya ziphezulu kwi-isoflavones, ezinokuthi zibe nemiphumo ye-anticarcinogenic kunye nemiphumo efana ne-estrogen ngenxa yesakhiwo se-diphenolic. Ezi ziphumo zifana ne-estrogen zinokulwa ezinye zeziphumo zokuyeka ukuya exesheni ekugugeni kolusu.
3.8.2. Ukuqulunqwa kunye neNdlela yokuSebenza
I-Soy, evela kwi-Glycine maxi, iphezulu kwiprotheni kwaye iqulethe i-isoflavones, kuquka i-glycitein, i-equol, i-daidzein, kunye ne-genistein. Ezi isoflavones, ezikwabizwa ngokuba yi-phytoestrogens, zinokuba neziphumo ze-estrogenic ebantwini.
3.8.3. Ubungqina Benzululwazi
Iimbotyi zesoya ziqulethe ii-isoflavones ezininzi ezineenzuzo zokuchasa ukuguga. Phakathi kwezinye iziphumo ze-biologic, i-glycitein ibonisa iziphumo ze-antioxidant. I-dermal fibroblasts ephathwa nge-glycitein ibonise ukwanda kweeseli kunye nokufuduka, ukunyuka kwe-synthesis ye-collagen iintlobo ze-I kunye ne-III, kunye nokunciphisa i-MMP-1. Kwisifundo esahlukileyo, i-soy extract yadibaniswa ne-haematococcus extract (i-algae yamanzi ahlambulukileyo nayo iphezulu kwi-antioxidants), eyanciphisa i-MMP-1 mRNA kunye nokubonakaliswa kweprotheni. I-Daidzein, i-soy isoflavone, ibonise i-anti-wrinkle, i-skin-lightening, kunye ne-skin-hydrating effects. I-Diadzein inokusebenza ngokuvula i-estrogen-receptor-β esikhumbeni, okubangelwa ukubonakaliswa okuphuculweyo kwe-antioxidants engapheliyo kunye nokunciphisa ukubonakaliswa kwezinto ezibhaliweyo ezikhokelela ekwandeni kwe-keratinocyte kunye nokufuduka. I-soy-derived isoflavonoid equol yandisa i-collagen kunye ne-elastin kwaye yehla i-MMPs kwinkcubeko yeseli.
Uphononongo olongezelelweyo kwi-vivo murine lubonisa ukuncipha kokufa kweseli ye-UVB kunye nokuncipha kobunzima be-epidermal kwiiseli emva kokusetyenziswa kwe-topical ye-isoflavone extracts. Kuphononongo lokulinga lwabafazi abangama-30 be-postmenopausal, ulawulo lomlomo lwe-isoflavone luthathe iinyanga ezintandathu lubangele ukwanda kwe-epidermal ubukhulu kunye nokwanda kwe-dermal collagen njengoko kulinganiswe nge-biopsies yolusu kwiindawo ezikhuselwe yilanga. Kuphononongo olwahlukileyo, i-soy isoflavones esulungekileyo inqande ukufa kwe-UV-induced keratinocyte kunye nokuncipha kwe-TEWL, ubukhulu be-epidermal, kunye ne-erythema kwisikhumba sempuku esivezwe yi-UV.
I-RCT ye-double blind-blind ye-30 yabasetyhini abaneminyaka eyi-45-55 ithelekisa ukusetyenziswa kwe-estrogen kunye ne-genistein (soy isoflavone) kwesikhumba kwiiveki ze-24. Nangona iqela elisebenzisa i-estrogen eluswini lineziphumo ezigqwesileyo, omabini amaqela abonisa uhlobo olwandisiweyo lwe-I kunye ne-III ye-collagen yobuso esekwe kwi-biopsies yolusu lwe-preauricular. I-oligopeptides ye-Soy inokunciphisa isalathisi se-erythema kwi-UVB-eveziweyo yesikhumba (i-forearm) kunye nokunciphisa iiseli zokutshiswa lilanga kunye ne-cyclobutene pyrimidine dimers kwiiseli zejwabu ze-UVB-irradiated ex vivo. Ulingo lweklinikhi olulawulwa ngokuphindwe kabini olungaboniyo oluphindwe kabini olubandakanya abantu ababhinqileyo abangama-65 abanomfanekiso wobuso obuphakathi babonise ukuphucuka kombala onamabala, ubuthuntu, ubuthuntu, imigca emihle, ukuthungwa kwesikhumba, kunye nethoni yesikhumba xa kuthelekiswa nesithuthi. Ngokudibeneyo, ezi zinto zinokubonelela ngeziphumo zokuchasa ukuguga, kodwa iimvavanyo zeklinikhi ezinamandla ngakumbi ezifunekayo ukuze zibonise ngokwaneleyo inzuzo yazo.
4. Ingxoxo
Iimveliso zeBotanical, kubandakanywa nezo zixutyushwa apha, zineempembelelo ezichasene nokuguga. Iinkqubo ze-botanicals ezichasayo ukuguga zibandakanya amandla asimahla okutshabalalisa i-antioxidant esetyenzisiweyo, ukonyuka kokukhuselwa kwelanga, ukonyusa ulusu, kunye neziphumo ezininzi ezikhokelela ekwandeni kokwakheka kwecollagen okanye ukuncipha kokuqhekeka kwe-collagen. Ezinye zezi ziphumo zithobekile xa zithelekiswa namayeza, kodwa oku akunciphisi inzuzo yabo enokuthi isetyenziswe xa isetyenziswe ngokubambisana namanye amanyathelo afana nokuphepha kwelanga, ukusetyenziswa kwe-sunscreens, ukuthambisa imihla ngemihla kunye nonyango olufanelekileyo lwezonyango lwezimo zesikhumba ezikhoyo.
Ukongeza, i-botanicals ibonelela ngezithako ezizezinye ezisebenza ngokwebhayoloji kwizigulana ezikhetha ukusebenzisa kuphela izithako "zendalo" kulusu lwazo. Nangona ezi zithako zifumaneka kwindalo, kubalulekile ukugxininisa kwizigulane ukuba oku akuthethi ukuba ezi zithako zineempembelelo ezimbi, enyanisweni, iimveliso ezininzi zebhotani ziyaziwa ukuba zingunobangela onokuthi ubangele i-dermatitis ye-allergic.
Njengoko iimveliso zokuthambisa azifuni inqanaba elifanayo lobungqina bobungqina bokusebenza, kudla ngokuba nzima ukufumanisa ukuba amabango eempembelelo zokuchasa ayinyaniso. Uninzi lwezityalo ezidweliswe apha, nangona kunjalo, zineziphumo zokuchasa ukuguga, kodwa ulingo olomelele ngakumbi lwezonyango luyafuneka. Nangona kunzima ukuqikelela ukuba ezi arhente zezityalo ziya kunceda njani ngokuthe ngqo kwizigulane kunye nabathengi kwixesha elizayo, kunokwenzeka ukuba uninzi lwezi zityalo, ukwakheka okubandakanya njengezithako kuya kuqhubeka ukwaziswa njengemveliso yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba kwaye ukuba ukugcina umda obanzi wokhuseleko, ukwamkelwa okuphezulu kwabathengi, kunye nokufikeleleka ngokufanelekileyo, baya kuhlala beyinxalenye yeendlela zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba rhoqo, zibonelela ngeenzuzo ezincinci kwimpilo yolusu. Ngenani elilinganiselweyo lezi arhente zezityalo, nangona kunjalo, impembelelo enkulu kubemi ngokubanzi inokufunyanwa ngokomeleza ubungqina besenzo sabo sebhayoloji, ngovavanyo olukumgangatho ophezulu we-biomarker kwaye emva koko ibeke ezona njongo zithembisayo kuvavanyo lolingo lwezonyango.
Ixesha lokuposa: May-11-2023
